N Shore quand c'est gros!!

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N Shore quand c'est gros!!

Message par corran le Sam 20 Mar 2010 - 4:21

Its big and crunchy today on the N Shore... about 12' Hawaiian from the N directly, with strong winds.

I checked out Sunset for ages this morning and decided against it- on a SUP too much chance of getting caught inside close out sets - the 2 surfers out there were getting hammered. Checked backdoor, Wiamea... either not going or crappy... so I headed into Haleiwa. Figured... "it''l be mellow".

it looked mellow. 2-3" overhead... nice peeling sets, close out close to shore, but hey... all good.

So I grab the 7' Cutback and head out. This thing is really hard to balance on, and has zero forward speed. I make it almost all the way out, and the first wave of an outsside sets closes out... and I get pounded. Three or 4 waves pound me... back to the beach.


So I start again. Make it almost all the way out (now I'm tired) and ... thats right... the same thing happens, and I'm back at the beach.

Now I'm determined to do it just out of frustration . screw having a good time. So I head east staying well inside and find a channel going out, and I literally get sucked out to sea... too far. Now I'm facing west paddling my ass off (this means not going anywhere on this thing) and I crank and crank. Now I'm getting really tired and I pause and look east to see if maybe I should just head to the harbour... i that time it took me to look I fall off the board, climb back on, and have lost all the ground the last 10 mins of stroking got me.


Then luck! This HUGE set suddenly appears - something I'd expect at Sunset, not here at easy old Haleiwa!! Its way outside so I turn and stroke towards it... and right as its about to break on me I'm in place. The one thing thats cool about this board is 1 stroke and you do a 180 spin, and all I do is lean forward 9no stroke) and I'm screaming down the face. its close in size to the biggest thing I've ridden at Sunset, except Sunset I was on a 8'5"!!!

The fins 9quads) begin to whistle (Shreadometer!!!) and the back gets super loose and squirly on me (I'm not even at the bottom yet). Looking right I see the shoulder jacking up and I turn into it and go screaming down the face. It looks like I'm going to make the section... and then it closes out about 100' from where I am. Between me and the closeout is a vertical wall.

Option B - punch out over the top. So i drop down the face, make a bottom turn edging as hard as I can get it over, and the board rockets up the face so fast i'm startled. But the lip is over vertical already, and I hit it doing Mark2... and sky... like.... SKY ROCKET into the air.

I tried to get the board back under me, but no way.... a good 5 or 6 feet above the lip I'm looking down into the pit thinking "oh shit, this is gonna hurt".

And it did. I landed in the flat, about 2 feet in front of the crashing face on my back, the board still touching my feet, but sideways to me. SLAP.... I hot hard, and the whole wave barrels into me. Amazingly I barely feel anything (I must have gone deep - and the board too) because it just passes over me. two or 3 strokes and I'm on the surface, and .... OH NO... here comes wave 2. Smaller than the first, but certainly not small. I scramble onto the board, facing out, go to try to paddle out, and change my mind... I spin, and bingo, drop down the face right as its breaking top to bottom. I turn out to the right again, and the lip goes clean over me and I watch it just peeling away from me much faster than I can keep up.

here it comes .... wait for it... EAR PACK! I felt like a Sumo wrestler had just grabbed my head and put it between his thighs and crushed. it really hurt and I hit the water so hard, the board whipping over the falls....

this time I felt it, and the board drug and drug... I could see the reef looming below me and I let go the paddle and put my hands in front of my face to protect me from any sudden mushrooms in the bottom. After maybe 10 seconds or so, it let up, and I surfaced. My paddle was right there and I grabbed it... and here comes wave 3... down I go... drug some more....more reef, one hit on my knee, but thats it.

Back to the surface I see I'm just 100' from shore, so I spun arround and lying on the board paddled in as fast as I could.

That was it for me thanks... a lesson learned. 7' board: Fun in surf with channel. No fun in close out surf with macking rip tides!

Tomorrow... a gentle day on the S Shore with Aaron and crew lol.



Messages : 56
Date d'inscription : 15/09/2009

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Re: N Shore quand c'est gros!!

Message par Eric le Sam 20 Mar 2010 - 11:55

Encore une bonne occasion de travailler notre anglais Razz

Simple curiosité, combien pèses-tu Corran ? (en kg)

Si vous avez des difficultés à vous inscrire ou à vous connecter, contactez moi par MP


Messages : 2642
Date d'inscription : 07/05/2009
Localisation : Fuerteventura !
Taille, poids : 173cm, 76kg

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Re: N Shore quand c'est gros!!

Message par corran le Sam 20 Mar 2010 - 14:07



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Date d'inscription : 15/09/2009

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Re: N Shore quand c'est gros!!

Message par Benji le Sam 20 Mar 2010 - 19:26

Et je suis bien d'accord avec toi Corran, les petites boards "fun" doivent rester dans les racks quand ce ne sont pas des conditions "fun" justement! En tous cas, tu dois être un peu masochiste pour y retourner une deuxième fois...Tu m'impressionnes! Shocked


Messages : 1696
Date d'inscription : 11/05/2009
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Localisation : Pays Basque
Taille, poids : 1m 87, 94Kg

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